| Projects & Problems
|
1. Setup Problems
Problem #1 (Mar, 1996) "Nitrite Problem"
Information updated on 29 November, 1997
I don't have enough live rock at that time, there
was only 20 lb in my 65G tank. Normally we need 1kg for each gallon. Now
I have approx. 100lb. live rock.
Here are some observation about the Blue Circle for difference SG in these few months:-
Information updated on 27 October,97
I have brought some sea water from Hong Kong
Clear Water Bay to my home and tested by Aquarium System S.G. meter, I
wonder that the reading is 1.017 ?? On the other word, is the salinity
still too high in my tank? Suppose the real salinity of the seawater is
1.021 then the error of my current S.G. meter is -0.004. And my old S.G.
meter is also has a error -0.004 to my current S.G. meter, if I get a reading
1.021 from my old S.G. meter, then the actual salinity may be over 1.029
???
But my corals and fishes seem no problem in the
current salinity measured by Aquarium System meter.
Information updated on 8 November, 97
The below site has other recommendation about
Salinity and Temperature (Other than traditional 24C-26C 1.021-1.023)
http://www.aquariumfrontiers.com/1997/nov/features/1/index.htm
Information updated on 27 November,97
I have changed to use a bigger UV sterilizer
(15Watt), I also have introduced Cleaner Shrimp to "eat" the white
spots on the fish body. Now the white spots are under control since August
1996.
April, 1997
This is a long, heart-breaking story .......
This is my fault, since I know nothing about reef keeping when I was going to start up a reef system. I keep too many fishes and the tank was not fully cycled, the anaerobic bacteria was not function properly, so my reef system was overloaded. But why fish shop can keeps so many fishes in a tank? The answer is their fishes will not keep long in their tank. All the fish may sold out within several days after arrived, and many shops are using toilet water (some buildings in HK are using saltwater for toilet) for fish keeping, so they can change the water more frequency and accumulated Nitrate will be diluted. But we cannot make water change everyday, everybody need to work for money everyday and you may not want to use toilet water to keep your favours Corals & Fishes.
In my own observation, nitrate is definitely deadly
for Corals, I wonder that why some articles said Nitrate is less toxic
and keep it to under 200mg/L is ok (This value is comes from a famous book,
I hope it is just printing error otherwise the writer is crazy). If your
tank is a Fish only system, that may be ok. But if your tank is a reef
or Fish & Reef system, that may not ok because many species of coral
cannot afford more then 50ppm of nitrate and it will becomes die if the
nitrate level is over 50ppm.
   |
This Bubble Coral was introduce on June 1996 (First), and dying on April 1997 (Middle) in 80ppm of Nitrate, remains part back to normal (Third) after denitrated (0ppm). |
All the corals become die, at first I don't think nitrate is so harmful, I have used many other methods, less feeding, change water, and add extra filter, adding chemical.... None of them can help to stop the Corel dead.
I make up my mind to setup a Denitrator (Box type). From their document they said it need 4-6 weeks for starting, but after 6 weeks, just a little bit (smaller than 10ppm) of nitrate was removed by it. At the same time the nitrafluid was used up and cannot found another one in my city. I feel sad and disappointed, why they sell the denitrator without nitrafluid support ???
After searching for many products, I have bought
an electrical denitrator for my final trial, this denitrator use electrons
transfer method to break down NO3 to N2 gas. But I got to paid not only
US$400, also the life of my favours Blue Circle, I don't know what's wrong
of the unit, I just know it break down SALT (NaCl) instead of NO3 and generate
high toxic CHLORINE (Cl2 bleach smell). Now I have sent the unit back to
the factory for inspection.
 |
He was gone on 2-April-97; just 30minutes after turn on the electronic denitrator, the Chlorine reached a deadly level (bleach smell). He lives in my home for about one year, before he dead, he was changing his color to become an adult fish Imperator. Do you feel my feeling? |
Information updated on 8-June-97
Two month after installed the denitrator, I found it can keeps the Nitrate level as low as around 6ppm but I found a problem, it is difficult to control the water flow rate. The water outlet always blocked, if the water flow rate too low or none, or too much nitrafluid added, toxic H2S may produced (Odor egg smell).
Sometime we will use sugar to controls the nitrate, I agree the nitrate will be broken down inside the anoxic area of the tank but the side effect is H2S may also produced and bad algae also bloom out, so sugar is not a long term solution for denitrate.
Now I removed the denitrator away and use a denitrate solution AZ-NO3 instead, it works great without side effect, the nitrate level drop down from 6ppm to 0ppm within one week! It helps to activate some kind of enzyme and then the enzyme combine with the nitrate molecule and removed by the protein skimmer. I will report how it works again
Information updated on 7-Sept-97
At last I can control the Nitrate level at 0ppm
without using any denitrator or solution.
AZ-NO3 is an ideal solution if you found the
nitrate level is uncontrollable, it can easy remove 100ppm of nitrate within
a month.
Live rocks and intensity lighting are
my final solution to control nitrate, at first I don't believe that live
rock can remove so much nitrate because my system running over a year but
the nitrate still cannot get control. Since I have change the FL light
tubes to MH lighting (Aqualine 10000K 150W x 1), the nitrate fall down
from 10ppm to 0ppm within 1 week!
I think beside anaerobic bacteria denitrate processing,
photosynthesis effect produced by the algae on the rocks and inside the
corals are also important for denitrate processing, but what have to paid
is more algae growing. I think I will add some good-looking algae to consume
those Nitrate and PO4, I will report again if I have done.
If you have any comment about denitrate please
send an email to me.
Information updated on 25-Nov-97
I don't need good looking algae to controls bad algae, all the bad algae is under contol after I had removed all PO4, see "Fight to PO4".
3. Fight to PO4 "Algae Problem"
April, 1997
Although I am already using DI water (deionized water) but the aquarium water still contains PO4. Actually my PO4 is not comes from water source, it may be comes from food source. The PO4 problem is not big as nitrate, it can easy removed by some PO4 absorbent in hours like Kent's PO4 remover.
I bought a JBL PO4 tester to test all water from tank, tap, salt. at last I found that PO4 was comes from the salt, I wonder why the salt contains ugly PO4 ?? After reading through the message printed on the box, I found that PO4 is one of the trace elements of the salt, oh my GOD! I think I don't need PO4 at this moment so I have change to use another salt "Reef Crystals", after changed to use Reef Crystals, growing speed of algae was reduced.
18th October, 1997
A good PO4 test kit is also important to control
PO4, since my old PO4 test kit can just detect as low as 0.25ppm PO4 but
it may cause problem if 0.1ppm of PO4 exists in the system, so a sensitive
PO4 test kit is important. I have changed to use Salifert, it can detect
PO4 level as low as 0.015ppm.
The PO4 level rises to 0.25ppm, I try to use
a new product calls "PO4 Minus" to reduce the PO4, it works like AZ-NO3
and need to works together with a powerful protein skimmer. Please see
"Maintenance Schedule" I will post daily result there. You will found details
of PO4 Minus at Marine Monsters.
22nd October, 1997
After four dosage of "PO4 Minus", the PO4 level
reached to undetectable level, no color produced in the testing. I will
keep monitoring to see when will it back to 0.05ppm.
Daily Maintenance Record
PO4 test kit is SALIFERT PO4 Profi-Test, where
* is exactly match to the color chart, ? is between two colors.
Date
PO4 Level
PO4 minus dosage
----------- -----------------------
-------------------
18-Oct-97 * 0.25ppm (initial level)
5ml
19-Oct-97 * 0.125ppm
5ml
20-Oct-97 ? 0.1ppm
5ml
21-Oct-97 * 0.05ppm
5ml
22-Oct-97 under 0.015ppm
Stop here
July, 1997
1997 summer is too hot in Hong Kong, the hottest
day is around 33-34C and the room temperature is around 31-33C, although
I have already installed a chiller (Aqualine 350) but the aquarium water
still going up to 27C after the MH light is switched on.
Because one side of my tank is facing to a wall
so I try to stick a piece of PVC foam to cover the back side of my tank.
One day after the water temperature goes down 1.5C more (25.5C) when the
room temperature is 33C. This method can only prevents the heat energy
transferring from the room to the tank and will works only when the room
temperature is higher than the tank temperature, it cannot solve the heat
problem which directly added to the tank cause by lighting, power head
and other electric equipment.
Information updated on 8 November, 97
The below site has other recommendation about
Salinity and Temperature (Other than traditional 24C-26C 1.021-1.023)
http://www.aquariumfrontiers.com/1997/nov/features/1/index.htm
5. pH Fluctuation and lost of Calcium
August, 1997
Since July, the Calcium level of my tank was drop
rapidly, it drops from 400ppm to 250ppm within a month even I have continually
dose liquid Calcium, and pH level drops to dangerous level even I have
continually add sea buffer.
I found that the dKH Carbonate Hardness of the
aquarium is too high (over 18dKH), the additional calcium will easy deposit
in high dKH, so the calcium level cannot be rised. Too weak light will
also cause low pH since extra CO2 produced by algae cannot be consumed
by itelf on day time.
I dose and dose Sea Buffer when low pH, I lost
calcium after dosing too much Sea Buffer.
I decided to install a MH lighting and setup
a Calcium Reactor, at first I was using chemical powder CO2 system but
for more trouble free I going to setup a bottled CO2 and pH controller
to control the internal pH level of the Calcium Reactor. Now the Calcium
level keep rising up slowing and the pH level rises to within a safety
range (7.8 to 8.2)
October, 1997
Two months later the Calcium level of my tank back to 350ppm without any extra liquid calcium and fluctuation of pH is small, around 8.12 to 8.25 (morning/night)
November, 1997
Now Calcium level of my tank is 400ppm without any extra liquid calcium and fluctuation of pH is small, around 8.12 to 8.25 (morning/night)
5-March, 1998
After several months the fluctuation of pH becomes
bigger and bigger, although the calcium reactor is keep running and dKH
is high (12dKH), the pH is still low at morning from under 8.08 to evening
8.32. From Albert's acticles I know that the high dKH may just indicated
the bicarbonate ions, but carbonate ions is still insufficient. Normally
bicarbonate ions will cause low pH and carbonate ions will cause high pH,
so lack of carbonate may cause fall in pH.
I use 1 liter of water mixed with 1 teaspoonful
of sodium carbonate. Start drop to the tank at evening while the light
is gone. I adjust the drop rate until the pH has froze at 8.28, it is around
0.5drop/sec.
6-March, 1998
After treatment for one night, most of the animals
seem very happy, of course the pH was not fall on last night.
More happy |
More happy |
More happy |
More happy |
Except this one |
7-March, 1998
The sodium carbonate seems good for my tank,
although I had not dose it on last night, the pH had not fall below 8.15.
I will dose small amount tonight.
16-March, 1998
I found that the pH will fall back to original
if sodium carbonate was not dose for a few days, the main problem is bicarbonate
supply (Calcium bicarbonate from Calcium reactor).
I have stop the Calcium Reactor and changed the
concentration of sodium carbonate to 1 teaspoonful per 6 L of water and
dosing rate at 1 drop/sec.
16-October, 1998
An ill effect appeared, the calcium level falls
down very fast, it takes away approx. 50ppm of calcium after each treatment
of Sodium Carbonate or other buffer. See #13
To be continued....
6. Job of
tank reconstruction
13 November 97
Although my tank condition is stable with acceptable
water parameter, but I think it will better if I 
can
make some changes. Since my tank has no internal overflow box so I have
no sump till now, my Protein Skimmer and Calcium Reactor need to place
beside the tank. My target is discard all the bio filters including wet/dry
filter and put the protein skimmer and calcium reactor back to the cabinet
under the tank. I am planning to make an external overflow box connected
by a U shape pvc tube to collect tank water and overflow to a 28 liter
sump with protein skimmer and calcium reactor beside it.This is the first
day of this new job, I will go to order those mini tanks, I think the overflow
box need to be tailor made to match my condition.
29 November 97
I
had made a mistake when planning this job, I had ignored the important
of the internal overbox. On the original design there are three main parts,
internal overflow box, external overflow box and sump. The
problem is my internal overflow box is not a fully sealed box, actually
it is a corner filter, so I cannot use a shorter overflow tube in the external
overflow box to have a greater flowing rate. If I used a shorter overflow
tube, the sump will be flood due to internal overflow box cannot prevents
tank water to go inside.In this system, the Internal Overflow Box
is the main part that cause overflowing while the water returns from the
sump, the water level in this box may have big difference to the tank water
level depends on the position of the external overflow box. The External
Over Flow box is just a water level controller that prevents the
siphon (U tube) dry out.The height difference between Internal and External
overflow box will directly affect the water flow rate to the sump.
7. Don't let those
shop keeper hurt your corals
1 December 97
Beware of those careless inexperience shop keeper.
When you see a coral fully open in a display tank and you want to buy it,
some careless shop keeper will easy to hurt it by suddently take it out
from the tank, especially bubble corals, the bubble contains water and
the membrane is easy to be broken if it is take out from the water while
it is opening. It will cause unrecoverable damage to the corals. Make sure
the corals is fully closed before take out from the water or direct pack
inside the tank.
8. Mystery death of new fishes
3-December 1997
Do you have this problem? The tank looks ok, corals,
fishes.... But when you add new fishes, the new fishes will dead within
a week or even shorter, the old fishes are still living without problem.
The fishes always die without any visible external symptom except hard
breathing and gill fully opened after dead. Somebody said it may caused
by Cyanide.
I have this problem since I have installed a
big protein skimmer, it working 24 hours and 365 days. I am not sure the
skimmer causes the problem directly but I think the skimmer had extracted
out too much essential elements especially Iodine from the water. I remember
that I don't had this problem in the past, even before starting my reef
tank, I had tried to keep marine fishes in a very simple setup without
problem, at least they will live over a month. Although I have dose essential
elements regularly, the problem is still existing. I think the old fishes
can absorb those elements from food, but the new fishes after their long
travelling and rapidly change of environment, they will become weak and
they are always not eating at the first few days. So if the water don't
has enough essential elements, they may difficult to survive.
I decided to make some experiments. I had did a cruel experiment on my 35L mini hospital tank (Hope God can forgive me, there are 10 fishes were dead in this experiment). My mini tank has a small air-wood drive skimmer, at first I think the essential elements was totally extracted out so the fishes were dead, at this stage I had lost 1 angel and 1 butterfly within 3 days. At second stage I removed the protein skimmer and add trace elements weekly, although another pair of angel and butterfly also dead, they live longer, they have stay alive for over one week. At third stage, I dose Kent Iodine 2 drops per day, the new angel and butterfly live over one month until I have not dose Iodine, they were dead on the same day after four days without Iodine.
I still cannot realize that this problem is caused by Cyanide ? Imbalance of essential elements ? Virus/bacteria infection ? I just know that dose Iodine daily will help to prevents death of new fish. Now I keep dosing Iodine daily and some new fishes are living well since 1-November 1997.
20-March 1998 Problem was Solved!!
May
be I had missed out some basic procedure of fish/reef keeping in these
years. Since there are some trace elements only existing in liquid form,
so the water mixed with sea salt may be insufficient of these elements.
But I really don't know it is so important and it controls dead or live.
Duplagan
M water treatment is used to fill
up those elements which are not existing in the sea salt. When we setup
a new tank, although we have dose trace elements regularly, the aquarium
still insufficient of those elements since we have not dose the inital
volume of trace elements to the new water, problems may be occur especially
those tiny/weak fishes. Now all my tiny fishes are living happy, healthy,
active and well eating.
I wonder that why fishes can stand more than
10ppm of NO2 for over a month but cannot survive 3 days without those trace
elements.
27-May 1998 Nightmare again ??!!
Duplagan
M water treatment really can help
to prevents fish death......for 30 days. Time goes by, Duplagan
M was used up by the animals and extracted
out by the skimmer, the protecting power becomes weak. Nearly all the fishes
were dead and none of new fish can survive more than 3 days. I think it
may not caused by bacteria infection since I have a similar tank which
connected with a 11W UV sterilizer but still cannot escape from this problem.
Now I try to use my first sea salt "Sera
premium sea salt" + Duplagan
M, I remember that my first simple
mini tank using this sea salt was successful, at least the fishes can live
months. I will let you know the results.
12-June 1998 Trace Element? Bacteria Infection? Salt?
I still not sure what cause this problem. I have two similar tanks changed to use SERA salt. One with UV sterillizer, the other without UV. Later the new fishes in the tank without UV were dead, but the new fishes in the tank with UV are still living happy. Actually the fishes I selected for this experiment are small and weak so I think the problem will not so serious for bigger fishes.
9. Remove Wet/Dry filter....MY BIG MISTAKE !!
4-December 1997
Because many articles and aquarists state that
Wet/Dry filter is Nitrate Factory so it was disconnected on 28-November,
1997. Unfortunately the nitrate level of my tank rise from undetectable
level to 6ppm (without Nitrite) now. Today I washed
the media with aquarium water and reconnected it immediately, I hope the
bacteria inside was not totally dead.
I think the theory "Wet/Dry = Nitrate Factory"
may not absolutely right for all situration and may not suitable for everyone
to remove it. In my case my tank bio-loading is heavy, I have 20 fishes
and 20 invertebrates in my 65G system, so the denitrification power of
live rocks may not enough. Anyway, from this mistake I can ensure that
my wet/dry filter was helping to remove nitrate.
My wet/dry filter is Eheim
2229 filter with three media baskets. Although it contains baskets
but it is a real open air w/d filter, the baskets just used to hold the
media. Top one was filled with 2 cm plastic bio-balls, it is running for
two months since I had introduced this filter. Middle one was filled with
Siporax bio-rings, it is running for over two years. Bottom one was filled
with Kent Nitrate Remover, it is running for over 8 months and the chemical
effect for removing nitrate is already expired.
I think the anaerobic bacteria was living inside
the bio-rings or Kent Nitrate Remover. On the other words, if we can change
to use some right media inside the wet/dry filter then wet/dry filter will
no more be a Nitrate Factory.
Although I am not an expert and you may not agree with me but I want to tell you the above story is true.
8-December 1997
Four
days after reconnected the w/d, the nitrate level slightly decrease to
under 6ppm, I am not sure what is helping to remove nitrate but I am sure
that it is really functioning. I decided to test by remove the media one
by one. From the structure and characteristic, the bio-ball seems don't
have this function. Today I have removed the bio-balls and replaced with
Siporax Bio-rings. If the nitrate level is decreasing continuely, I will
try to remove the Kent nitrate remover and add another pack of Siporax
on next week.
16-December 1997
12 days after reconnected the w/d, the nitrate level stay around 6ppm, from this point I know that the w/d is helping to prevents increasing of nitrate. Since my system was zero nitrate for several months, so I think the denitrifying bacteria inside the filtering material and the increasing of nitrate were in equilibrium status. Once the nitrate level had suddently increased, there is no extra power to remove extra nitrate. This is just my thought, don't be so serious with my immature theory :^)
16-February 1998
Because my apartment was totally reorganizing last month, so I have no time to make any water test. But after all are settled down, I found that the NO3 level is back to undetectable without using any nitrate remover. I think the denitrifying bacteria is build up again inside the filtering material.
1-April 1998
Four months after reconnected my W/D filter, the
nitrate level of my tank is still undetectable. Because all the algae were
removed by the snails and crabs so I think the nitrate is not consumed
by the algae. Condition of the rocks and sand have no change so I think
some portion of the nitrate is removing by the W/D.
I will make one more experiment, I will stop
the protein skimmer for a month and see what will happen.
10. Do you want your sand snow white every day ?
6-December 1997
If
you want your sand snow white every day, you can employ a pair of hard
workers - Golden Head Sleeper Gobies. From my own experience, Golden Head
Sleeper Gobies are the most hard working type in Gobies series. They will
non stop to cleaning (sifting) the sand. I have introduced them since Nov,
97, they only need one day to cleaned up the sand substrate in snow white.
They are compatible with the sand in 1 to 2mm diameter. Make sure your
sand substrate has enough thickness, around 2 inch. These gobies must keep
in pair, bigger one is better (3 inch or over) since they have bigger gill.
You must take care of their food, they may not enough food if the sand
is too clean, see Nathan's
Mini Reef Aquarium Page , he has an article
describe about how to take care with Gobies.
10. Automatically water top off refill system
16-February 1998
I
am so appreciate that my friend Jisung had bring a float switch to me from
Korea, he has already made an automatically water top off refill system
successfully by this float switch. The circuit is simple, what you need
are:-
| 1. Float Switch | 2. Relay | 3. DC Adapter | 4. Power Head | 5. A piece of acrylic |
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
| 6. Power Centre | 7. Bucket | A. Bent acrylic | B. Mounted | C. Water source |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
Measure the water level and find the right position of the float switch. I have cut a piece of acrylic (4cm x 30cm) and bend it by a lighter (pic A). Drill a hole and fix the float switch on the acrylic then mount on the tank wall (pic B).
The relay was place inside the power centre. All the wires should be connected carefully, beware of the AC power. The power head (Rio2100) was put inside a 15L bucket (pic C). Because my tank is 60 inch high so I use a thin air hose for water outlet purpose to avoid using a big power head. Something are important for making this DIY Top Off system.
Finally, many thanks to Mr. Jisung Woo, he brought the float switch for me from Korea and also gave me valuable information about how to make this project.
11. My new mini 38L marine tank.
8-March 1998
I am working for my new 38L mini marine tank. It will place next to my computer desk. The setup is very simple. I decided to use Berlin method in this tank. The tank contains 20 lbs dead sand and 10 lbs old live rock, 30L old aquarium water and six tiny fishes (1-2cm) included tiny angle, butterfly, tang & clown fish.
11-March 1998
What's wrong with my new tank? All the parameters are in good condition. All the fishes were dead within these 3 days. I am thinking about "Mystery death of new fishes" (#8). I bought a bottle of Duplagan M water treatment, it used to fill up those elements which are not existing in sea salt mixed water. I added another 6 tiny fishes at the mean time I dosed 20ml of Duplagan M. I hope it will solve the "Mystery death of new fishes" problem.
20-March 1998
All fishes are still active, well eating, healthy and happy. Is it a effect of Duplagan M ?
12. Life of Metal Halide (MH) Lamp.
17-June 1998
In ideal situation, a MH bulb can last one year before big color shift or failure. But the quality of the bulbs are varying, the life may be longer or shorter, or you may found something wrong about the color output even a new bulb. When should a old bulb to be replaced? Time goes by, the color of the light shift gradually and slowly, so you may overlook it. In my case, I am using 10000K 150W bulb, the intensity should be strong and the light shine on the animals should be white with a little bit blue/purple feeling. After 10 months the intensity of the light becomes weak and the light shine on the animals appears yellow. If you don't fix it, your animals will show objection. Some of my anemones start moving, the Leather corals not stand up any more, the Bubble corals and other corals become smaller and trouble algae bloom out.
Due
to something were happened in my family in April 98, I had overlooked my
tank for two months. 70% of Stony Coral were dying or dead due to insufficient
Calcium (250ppm). At the same time the pH also very low, just 7.8 at night.
I start to fight with Calcium & pH at June, I made major water and
added buffer to rise the KH, hope can recover the pH of the water, unfortunately
the falling of Calcium level becomes more serious. When the pH level fixed
at 8.1 to 8.3, the Calcium just remains 220ppm. I rised the Calcium level
to 350ppm slowly by CaCl2 and Ca(OH)2, but the KH and pH fall again. It
seems that I have no way to rise both Calcium and pH at the same time.
I have tried several buffers included Sea Buffer, Sodium Carbon, Two Part
Calcium KH...... Yesterday the Calcium Level rised to 380ppm but pH is
very low (7.8 to 8.1).
Today I bought a pH stabilizer calls hydro-vital,
it is a substance which state that it can stabilizes the pH level of the
water at 8.2 to 8.4. A 400g pack can stabilizes 400L of water. I put 200g
into the filter when the pH falls down to 8.17 at night. Gradually the
pH rised back to over 8.2 within two hours. I will look closely to it effects
and effective life. Hope it can help me to solve my problem. I will post
the result here later.
19-October 1998
Three
days after using Ottavi
hydro-vital
ph stabilizer, the pH of the aquarium water has not fall below pH8.0 at
night. The pH range is around 8.01 to 8.22 (vs 7.8 to 8.1 in the past)
while Calcium level at 415ppm. Today I put the rest of hydro-vital
to the tank, now there is 400g in my 65G tank. I hope the lowest pH point
will rise a bit. And I also adjust time schedule of the MH lighting from
9 hours to 10 hours per day.
If any aquarist know more about Ottavi products,
please tell me more.
7-January 1999
Last trial was totally failed. The pH was dropping
quickly if I have not applied any chemical for several days.
At last I found that the low pH may caused by
high PO4 level (Phosphoric acids). Thanks to Rickie (HK Reefclub member),
he gave me information about relationship between Phosphoric acids and
Base ions (Calcium Hydroxide). Phosphoric acids also low down the Calcium
level of the water by combined the base ions to form insoluble Calcium
phosphate 2H3PO4 + Ca(OH)2<---> Ca(H2PO4)2 + 2H2O. Although continuely
adding Ca(OH)2 will decrease the PO4 level (makes it insoluble) but the
PO4 of my aquarium water is too high so the process will takes very long.
Finally I added "PO4 Minus", 5ml a day. After
4 days treatment the pH level becomes much more stable and has not drop
under pH8.
To be continued......
99. Reefkeeping - Joy ;^) and Sad :^(
22-November 1997
Too beautiful ! Today the tank condition is the best in this two years, all the corals are fully opened, all the algae are under controlled, all the water conditions are excellent, all the sand are snow white (cleaning by Gobies). See the new photos in Photo Album section. ;^)
4-December 1997
Today is my bad day :^( Beside the nitrate is
rising after my wrong decision #9, on the same day my Leather Coral hurt
by neighbour Mushroom Coral. The Mushroom Corals grow bigger and bigger
so it attack to the neighbours. At first I think it is a peaceful coral
but.......
Much more worse was happened, my Fat Three Striped
Damsel Fish fight together with my Clown Fish and push down my favours
Elegance Coral on two anemones. Now the Elegance Coral seems sick. I used
a small power head to blow away some sticky substance and garbage from
it, I hope it will not die. :^(
20-December 1997
After cleaning the skin and switched on UV for a week, the Leather Coral was totally recovered. ;^)
22-December 1997
Beware leakage of CO2 especially temperature changing
(Season Changing), the connection may be loose. On the last regular checking
on November, the internal pressure of the CO2 bottle was over 60 bar (inital
value is 70 bar). but now just remain 15 bar :^(
